March 17, 2022
Food & Drink, Feature, Food & Drink,
The wait is over and Atrium, Oliva Restaurant Group’s cozy and colorful escape from the mundane, is finally here.
Atrium’s Honeycrisp apple salad
The arctic char, complete with roasted endive, kumquats, pickled carrots and smoked trout roe
Stepping out of the hustle and bustle of Ponce City Market and into the warm and inviting oasis of the newly bowed Atrium is something akin to ducking into a cafe off the streets of Paris—well, if that cafe is full of riotous color, bold florals and an expansive mural. Indeed, Atrium somehow strikes a balance of both relaxing and awakening the senses. “The idea of creating an enchanting oasis among the buzz of life is something I’m passionate about,” says founder Tal Baum. Baum and the team at Smith Hanes Studio certainly achieved just that, as the eclectic and bright space makes clever use of botanicals and a palette of pinks, greens and golds that encapsulate the senses. The space is broken into two smaller concepts, with the 4,000-square-foot dining room, dubbed the Bistro, including airy details such as expansive factory windows, floral installations from Atlanta-based florist Pinker Times and large pink banquettes. The neighboring Parlor is a 1,200-square-foot cocktail lounge, a cozy oasis of comfortable seating, a bar featuring hand-painted tile and a mural by Savannah-based artist Kipper Millsap. Both spaces are transformative, creating the illusion of having left behind Atlanta’s commotion entirely. And then there’s the food, a bold concoction of modern American cuisine with European influence brought to life with bright, seasonally driven ingredients. Executive culinary director Brandon Hughes’ offerings consist of vegetable-forward appetizers, crudo, light pastas and larger entrees for sharing. Highlights such as the agnolotti with duck and celery root filling, smoked celery root and pecorino; and the bistro steak with roasted sunchokes, king oyster mushrooms, coffee and pickled red onion anchor the menu. Beverage director Demario Wallace curates a collection of cocktails, wine, beer, cider and zero-proof cocktails for guests enjoying the Bistro, with a more extensive selection available to those imbibing in the Parlor. Diners can expect to see seasonal cocktails and tipples inspired by world travels gracing both menus. Baum and her team aimed for the space to “capture a great sense of community while serving as a reprieve for our guests,” a goal we would say they have surpassed, and then some. 675 Ponce de Leon Ave., Ste. NE-158, 404.600.3939, atriumatl.com
Atrium serves delicious seasonal cocktails
A cozy corner of the Parlor
The Bistro’s riotously colorful interiors
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